Hem Climbing Ice Climbing in Cogne – Italy

Ice Climbing in Cogne – Italy

Isklättring i Cogne, Valle d'Aosta
Isklättring i Cogne, Valle d'Aosta

In Val de Cogne, in the Gran Paradiso National Park, lies one of the best areas in the Alps, for ice climbing.

I have had the grace to be there and climb.

Max (see details below) and I went from Courmayeur around 8 in the morning, heading for Cogne. A trip of about 50 kilometers. Once there, after an hour, we begin our approach from Lillaz, a short stretch and after a quarter of an hour, we arrive at the start of today’s adventures.

Ice climbing is extremely fun and extremely rewarding because it’s suitable for people that are not the very strongest (that’s me). That is why I am in an extra good mood this morning and very stoked about today’s challenges.

Climbing the 2nd pitch in Lillaz, Cogne
Climbing the 2nd pitch in Lillaz, Cogne

We start with very light ice scrambling – it was barely climbing, but the way along the Gorge is exceptionally beautiful. At times, we go along with the water, which in places is open. At times we climb small, and sometimes a little larger falls. Finally we arrive at, what will prove to be the end station – a beautiful Place, with several ice falls to climb.

The idea from the beginning, was to follow the water and climb all the way, all pitches, but the ice doesn’t allow for it. I have already hammered through the ice into the water on the 2nd pitch in Cascade the Lillaz, and in places is the ice very thin and feels pretty unsafe. The warm winter weather has taken its toll. So when we reach the 3rd ice fall at Cascade the Galce de Lillaz à Congne, Max reckons that the falls above us are not safe to climb. Hence we stop and climb an hour in this wonderful site.

An unforgettable day.

A wonderful day in Cogne
A wonderful day in Cogne
I can really recommend Max for a guide – you’ll get in touch with him at maxgianchini@tiscali.it. Max emanate from Courmayeur but guides ”on the other side” as well – i.e. in France, in the Chamonix area.


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